2007/05/29

photo interrupter from sharp

i took an old photocopier apart and found a bunch of photointerrupters. here are just a quick few notes.


sharp 58
inside it has an A and 361, cables that is came with are from left to right blue (5V), dark green (output), light green - maybe grey (ground)

sharp P1209, C75L
inside it says 431, cables that it came with are from left to rigth yellow (5V), blue(output), back(ground)

the next one i fright, because i am not sure how much volt it takes. but for a while it worked like described below.
sharp 59 IA22LC or 1A22LC, inside is sealed black, has a little diode symbol on top, cables that it came with are from left to right blue(output), green(5V), blue(ground) or red(ouput), green(5V), blue(ground)

H JST 321

2007/04/10

Valeo windshield wiper motor


I am quoting from all electronics corp:

"Valeo 15094704. Powerful 12 Vdc windshield wiper motor. 65 RPM @ 12 Vdc, 2.5 Amps (no-load rating). Diecast metal housing with plastic circuit housing is 7.75" long x 5" x 3.5." A metal arm with a ball-joint is affixed to the 5/16" drive shaft with a nut. A 10-pin connector and plastic housing containing circuitry are attached to one side of the motor. An interesting and possibly useful feature of this motor is that it always stops in the same position when the power is switched off. If a momentary connection is made, the motor will rotate exactly one revolution."

They also have a useful pdf available with the pin description.

If you ground PIN 5 for about one second and then disconnect the connection to ground then the motor will stop its rotation after 360 degrees, which is its starting position.

If you keep PIN 5 grounded the motors keeps on turning. It seems that when doing so the motors turns at a faster speed.


I used 12 of those motors to each lift a 12 foot aluminium rod. Each motor was powered by an 10 amp/ 12 volt computer power supply. The project is called Stellar Dynamic.




I originally thought of using an other type of wiper motor (see image, motor with black body). It also gives you an signal when it finishes a full rotation, but does not stop automatically. One of the PINs stops being grounded for the last 10 degrees of the rotation. That can be used as position indicator.

Here is the pin description:

Approx. 62 RPMs at 12 volts (High Speed)

Approx. 45 RPMs at 12 volts (Low Speed)


5 Pin Connector is labeled as follows:

53b - High Speed

53a - Index Switch

53e - Index Switch

31b - Ground (case)

53 - Low Speed

For more info go to here and here.

2006/12/30

Mario_Dammann

Mario_Dammann is an Applescript for your web browser Camino, Safari or Firefox that copies selected text along with the url and title in the same TextEdit file. At the end of the day you have a collection of all your selections in one text file.

Just download the script and place it in your web browser's script folder.

If you copy multiple texts segments from then same URL the segments are seperated by "... ..." and url and title won't be copied




If TextEdit is closed or no TextEdit window is open Mario_Dammann opens it for you

After highlighting sections of web-text select Mario_Dammann and the text will automatically be copied to a textedit file.



Mario Dammann - 0.9
Mario_Dammann - 0.8

Here are some links on how to make your browser applescriptable; for Safari and for Camino.

Mario_Dammann also works with PDFs opened in Safari.

Make sure you enabled access for assistive devices in you system preference under universal access.

Put together from scripts of many great members of the applescript community by stephan schulz.

print screenshot with applescript

-- this script take one screenshot, save it, opens the application preview and prints the screenshot


set save_locationA to "pieria HD:nelson:collectImage:" -- replace the text in the " " with you file path

set myTime to (do shell script "date '+%d%H%M%S'") -- creates a specific timestamp

do shell script "screencapture " & quoted form of POSIX path of save_locationA & "image" & myTime & ".JPEG"
-- takes the screenshot and saves it


tell application "Preview"
open save_locationA & "image" & myTime & ".JPEG"
end tell

activate application "Preview"

PrintPreview()

delay (4)
tell application "Preview" to quit

delay (3)
quit

on PrintPreview()
tell application "System Events"
tell process "Preview"
delay 2

keystroke "p" using {command down}
delay 1
keystroke return
delay 1
end tell
end tell
end PrintPreview

Lucas_Dambergs

The software Lucas_Dambergs enables you to link typed text to a specific time of a quicktime movie, DVD or Video_TS folder.





I have a lot of recorded video dialogues and when ever I watch them I take notes in text application. But it is almost impossible to go back to a specific part of the movie, because I never remember which note refers to which movie time.

This software inserts the time index into a text file, when ever you need it. Once a time index is linked to a set of notes you can just click on the index and the movie jumps back to the selected scene.


Just select "save the text file" and the text gets saved.


When you open a movie file that already has an associated text file, this text file will also open. Now you can continue to work on an older set of notes.


Download Lucas_Dambergs 0.9.3.4 for Mac OS X.
Download Lucas_Dambergs 0.9 for Mac OS X.
Download Lucas_Dambergs 0.8 for Mac OS X.


No DVD support for Intel Macs so far.


This is Freeware and includes the macromedia director source files.
What others have to say:

http://scout.wisc.edu/Reports/ScoutReport/2006/scout-060915-nettools.php

http://www.macupdate.com/info.php/id/22737

http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/30787&mode=feedback



Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 2.5 License.




DIY video wall

different methods of creating a DIY video wall.


1. Pointing multiple video cameras at one computer flat screen:




This is my approach, because of its low tech quality. The image quality was surpassingly good. The pixel blended nicely into each other which could be considered as negative. But I liked the look.

Links: http://maybevideodoes.de/sites/fartalk.html or http://maybevideodoes.de/sites/mosaic.html


2. One computer with numerous graphic cards.




I used this approach for a piece with 6 projectors and it worked ok. The problem is if you do more than just displaying a big quicktime video the computer's performance is slowing down.

Links: http://maybevideodoes.de/diplom/travelDescrip.html


3. Scan Converter and VGA Multiplier




The VGA signal from the computer is converted in to a a composite video signal. In order to create multiple different signal you need converters like the MultiPro 2000. They give you the option of zoom in the VGA image and panning to the specific part of the VGA image. Theoretically you could place for small quicktime videos on you desktop, multiply the monitor's VGA signal 4 times with a VGA multiplier and connect one converter to every of the 4 new VGA outputs. Then zoom and pan the converter to the specific part and connect the converter's output to a video projector or TV.

Resolution loss will be a problem with this method and you will need to buy equipment that soon will be outdated.


4. Networking multiple computers and synchronizing their video playback:




I am currently investigating this method using Max MSP and Jitter. Here are some recent video results. One and Two.

2006/12/29

making a slip ring connector

This is a How-To for a Slip Ring Connector using ball bearings.


(I have more and detailed images at www.maybevideodoes.de/howto/newSlipring/index.html)


"A slip ring (in electrical engineering terms) is a method of making an electrical connection through a rotating assembly." (source: wikipedia.org)





I bought ball bearings from kinecor.com. Their width, inner and outer diameter determine the size of all the other parts.


I also got some clear plastic tubing. The bigger one fits the ball bearing snug inside and the smaller one fits inside the bearings. Make sure that the axle still has enough space to slip easily inside the smaller plastic tube. If needed you could combine different sizes of tubing until you reach the right size.



I used a piece of brass stock as my axle extension. O-rings, small screws and terminal blocks were needed to.


I cut the brass to the right size and drilled a hole in one end. The motors axle will fitted in here. A small threaded hole at the side allowed me to use a screw to hold both axles in place.



I dremeled four groves in brass axle deep enough for the wires to fit and not stick out more then the diameter of the axle. The wire does have insolation which can be squished a bit but try to dremel the grove deep enough.



Then I slipped the smaller plastic tube over the axle and marked where I wanted the wires to come out. I also temporarily slip on the bearings and O-rings to get the right spacing and position. I also marked which groves goes with which hole. My groves were not evenly spaced so I wanted to make sure that the marked hole will go with the right groves.



I cut the smaller piece of plastic tubbing so that it would fit all four ball bearings plus O-rings that go between them. The rubber O-rings prevent the bearings to ever touch each other. Then one by one I stuck a piece of wire with just a bit of uninsulated wire through. I had to make sure that a bit of the insulates was sticking out to. Then I placed the O-ring and then slowly pushed the ball bearing over the wire. I ground a small grove in the inside of the bearing for the wire to have a bit of space. So make sure the grove and the wire are aligned.




Then I slowly pushed the axle in. Now it was helpful that I marked which grove goes with which wire because I was a bit scared to cut the insulation. This would be dangerous because power would run through the axle all over the place!


I took the bigger piece of plastic tubbing slipped and marked where I needed the threaded holes to go. I used small steal screws and cut of their heads after I screwed them in tight.




I also ground a bit of the inside of the tube away so that it would fit better with the motor. My motor had round part sticking out. After grinding the tube it then gave me a tight fit and prevented the tube from moving around too much.



I used terminal block to create a safe connection to any power cable that I wanted to attach to the slip ring connector.



Here you can see the finished connector. I used a lot of O-rings in different places, because I wanted to be sure that no wires gets slowly worn out, cut or any uninsulated wire could be accidentally touched.



I have more and detailed images at www.maybevideodoes.de/howto/newSlipring/index.html



I also have some images of an older design at www.maybevideodoes.de/howto/oldSlipring/index.html



Thanks to Peter Flemming for the idea of using ball bearings.